Offshore: Hi-Flier Mahi - The Fisherman

Offshore: Hi-Flier Mahi

mahi
Look for the chickens along the midrange grounds, with bull mahi like this making a September to remember along the offshore pots and markers.

From midrange to the offshore grounds, dolphinfish abound in September.

All along the Mid-Atlantic and Northeast grounds, commercial fishermen drop lobster traps and sea bass cages affixed with submarine rope lines attached at the water surface to 8-foot long PVC hi-flier buoy marker flags to identify their pots. The resulting pot lines can spread from a couple hundred yards to a few miles.  As they say, any structure in the water acts like an oasis in an otherwise barren plain.

The virtual minefield of lobster pot and sea bass cage hi-fliers offer primo opportunity to catch mahi looking to hide and feed near structure. Hi-fliers can be found anywhere from close reef sites only a mile or two off, out 20 to 60 miles and beyond, offering ample opportunity to sight cast dolphin in early September when the waters hang in a 75- to 82-degree range.

When it comes to choosing the right pots to fish, the “dirtier” the lines are, the better. A multitude of marine growth on the tether lines including algae, barnacles and weed growth promotes the entire food chain to materialize.  Look for hi-fliers that have been deployed for some time as newly deployed pots will be clean and tend not to hold much life. Many times the beginning or end of a pot line will hold the most fish as there is usually a big orange poly ball connected to the hi-flier which creates even more structure.

Once you find a good looking pot filled with structure, don’t rush up to the pot and spook the fish but cut the engines and drift by about 25 yards from it. With an exploratory cast, you will be able to see any flashes or actual mahi come off the pot to chase your bait. Many times mahi will be down deeper on the pot line, so if you don’t get any visuals near the surface, cast back out and let the lure sink to 30 to 50 feet down then jig it back up. More often than not you will pull the school of fish hanging down deep up to the surface. Once a population is determined to be hanging around the pot, then initiate the game plan.

As well, pay attention to the winds and swells; where I am here along the Jersey Shore, any time there is a big E/NE blow, big schooling numbers of 40 to 60 fish seem to move in and stick to the pots.

If you suspect mahi are around, start by chumming them up. Toss a handful of five or six live peanut bunker or killies, or even fresh spearing to the pot to rile up any fish and draw them off the pot line or up from the depths underneath into a feeding frenzy. Send out 1-inch cut chunk baits of butterfish, sardines or squid heads on 2/0 to 3/0 octopus hooks snelled to light 20-pound fluorocarbon leader. If fish are down deeper, employ the use of 1- to 2-ounce metal jigs snapping them up all the way to the surface.

Even if you only bring one fish up, you know there are plenty more down there. By far, the most enjoyable way to hook mahi is by casting light half- to 1-ounce bucktails tipped with 4-inch Berkley Gulp Swimmin’ Mullet grubs in white, pink or chartreuse. Cast the bucktail toward the pot, let it sink for a five count to start, then twitch it back. Mahi will jump over each other to attack. If no hits come on the first cast, repeat the process and let the bucktail sink lower in the water column until you find what depth they are staging at.

Once a mahi is hooked, leave it in the water as the commotion sparks all the surrounding mahi to come feed aggressively. Though most dolphin average in the 2- to 10-pound bracket, I‘ve battled mahi close to 30 pounds on light bucktails around the offshore pots.

A day exploring the pots after chasing tuna is a worthy endeavor to load the cooler with some tasty fillets.

My gear for tackling midrange and offshore mahi includes a 4000 Shimano Stradic reel spooled with 20-pound braid for 2- to 15-pound mahi, up to a 6000 Shimano Stradic spooled with 30-pound braid for mahi of 20 to 30 pounds.  I prefer 20- to 40-pound Seaguar fluorocarbon leader and 2/0 to 3/0 Gamakatsu octopus hooks for drifting baits.

On the lure side, come armed with Joe Baggs Epoxy Jigs, white or pink half- to 1-ounce Andrus or Spro bucktails, half- to 1-ounce leadheads with 5-3/4-inch bubble gum Fin-S fish, 4-inch Berkley Gulp Swimmin Minnow, Savage Gear Glass minnow, and/or an assortment of 3/4-ounce Tsunami Split Tails.

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