Kayak Safety: When to Stay & When to Go - The Fisherman

Kayak Safety: When to Stay & When to Go

2018 7 Kayak Safety Fishing
Battling a heavy striped bass on a kayak can be difficult in the daytime, but doing so at night adds a slew of additional challenges and danger. The author recommends getting well-acquainted with a spot by day before attempting to fish it by night.

With each passing season, more and more anglers get into kayak fishing as its popularity grows. Unfortunately, growing at an equally-fast rate are the emergencies and life-threatening incidents involving someone fishing from a kayak. One thing that can never be discussed enough is how to stay safe when you venture out on the water. Being a seasoned fisherman and being a seasoned paddler are two completely different things.

When I began kayak fishing many years ago, I went about many things in the wrong way. Luckily I didn’t end up in a worst case scenario, but not everyone is so lucky. Studying both white water and sea kayaking helped give me a better perspective on how to remain safe while fishing.

The Right Boat

Getting into saltwater kayak fishing doesn’t just mean you need to have a kayak, paddle, tackle, and a fishing rod. There are some crucial pieces of safety equipment, which are imperative to remaining safe on the water, beginning with the proper kayak. Although they are affordable, those 8- to 10-foot kayaks you find at the big box stores are not appropriate for fishing in exposed areas where wind, tide, and current become a factor. At the minimum, an angler should be equipped with a sit-on-top kayak at least 11 feet in length with 12 to 14 feet being the sweet spot. A sit-inside recreational kayak has no place in the open ocean.

The major difference between a “sit on top” and “sit inside” is that sit on top kayaks are typically self-bailing using something called scupper holes. With these kayaks the angler rides on a sealed cavity so if water breaks over the top of the kayak it drains through the scuppers. On a sit inside kayak the angler rides inside an open cavity. There is no self-bailing mechanism built into this design.

The major reason for a kayak exceeding 11 feet long is that the hull is going to paddle more efficiently when fighting against wind, tide, and current than shorter kayaks. This is a major factor in staying safe when heading out into the salt. The less effort you put into propelling the kayak against these forces, the easier it will be to get back to shore if a situation occurs and you need to get to safety.

Essential Gear

Aside from an appropriate kayak, having the proper safety gear is a must. A well-fitting personal flotation device (PFD) is at the top of this list. A USCG type III or V PFD is required by many states to be worn during cold-weather months and within arm’s reach during the warm-weather months. I wear my PFD at all times regardless of the time of year. Wearing a PFD is your first line of defense when the unthinkable happens. Simply having one “within arm’s reach” has proven many times over to be less than sufficient in many kayak-related emergencies. In the very least, when you’re out in open water a PFD should be worn at all times.

Take the time to purchase the right PFD that fits correctly while in a seated fishing position, is comfortable enough for fulltime use and has any accessories (like pockets) which you might need. I wear an Astral Ronny Fisher because it fits me well, is comfortable when sitting in my kayak for hours at a time and offers just the right amount of storage.

2018 7 Kayak Safety Kayak
Ensuring a safe kayak experience takes more than just carrying the right gear. (Photo by Chris Wahl)

Often overlooked by new kayak anglers, but required by law in many states, an audible whistle should be attached to the PFD. Make sure you choose one that remains functional when wet.

If kayaking in colder water a dry suit of some sort is a must. A pair of stocking foot waders with a “semi-dry top” such as the Kokatat Tempest Jacket with a belt worn over the jacket will be sufficient at keeping you dry. Staying dry if you happen to end up in the water unexpectedly could save your life. When fishing in water below 65 degrees and at night, I always wear some type of dry suit. During the day I wear the dry suit when the water temperature is 60 degrees or less.

The rest of my safety gear includes the following: a knife fixed to my PFD, a handheld VHF radio, a first aid kit, a compass, a hand-operated bilge pump, 360-degree visible white light and flares. The light and flares are important when venturing out at night. The rest of that list could help you at any time day or night. At the very least, a way to call for help (cell phone in a dry bag) and a compass should be in your PFD pocket at all times. Visiting a local, reputable retailer that specializes in paddle sports instead of the big box store that has a “kayak department” will help get you on the right track to having the proper kayak, safety gear and equipment.

Knowledge is Safety

Aside from carrying the proper gear, knowing when NOT to go out on the water should be a top priority for every kayak angler. Many anglers that get into kayak fishing to target striped bass are already used to fishing in the dark from a boat or shore, but you should spend some time getting accustomed to fishing in a kayak during daylight first. Before hitting a new spot, fish it several times in the daylight under similar tide and wind conditions to that which you plan to fish it at night. “Reef A” might be very safe to fish during the flood tide but extremely dangerous during an ebb. The opposite could be true for “Point B,” which is located only half mile away. You need a thorough understanding of the area during each phase of the tide and under different wind conditions to know what to expect.

Wind is always an overlooked factor with new kayakers. I rely on four points of reference for my wind/weather forecast before deciding to fish a given spot, day or night. They are: the NOAA marine forecast, a real time buoy report, the SailFlow app, and my visual observations. If everything adds up to the forecast not being conducive to kayaking, I don’t even bother going. I have on occasion gone to look at a spot I intend to fish with a back-up plan to go elsewhere if the conditions weren’t viable. This helps obtain knowledge of an area for the future.

One of the biggest no-go scenarios is wind against tide. This can quickly cause the water to stand up and turn a typically calm area into a washing machine. Always know what the wind and tide situation for your area is going to be, especially when the tide changes or the wind is forecasted to shift.

When Things Go Wrong

If you end up in a dangerous situation in your kayak, it’s best not to panic. This might be easier said than done, but this is where practicing self-rescues comes into play. You need to have knowledge of not only getting back to your kayak, but also getting back onto it. It is a lot harder to do an open-water re-entry, especially when solo than in an area where you can touch bottom.

Very few people can swim up to their kayak and lift themselves back into it with their arms. If you attempt this method, position yourself on the side of the kayak, get down low in the water with your hands grabbing the side of the kayak. While kicking your feet like you are swimming, lift yourself simultaneously with your arms. This is my preferred method of kayak re-entry but it does require arm, core and leg strength and it does help if one side of your kayak is clear from rigging of rodholders, fishfinder and other accessories.

Another common way to re-enter a kayak is to crawl up the stern while your paddling partner holds the bow. The problem with this when fishing is many of us store our tackle and fishing rods behind the seat. You won’t be able to easily get around the gear and back to your seat with all of it in the way. However, this can be achieved by your paddling partner holding your stern to help stabilize the boat while you straddle the bow and crawl back into the kayak, but it is harder than a stern re-entry.

I know some people to be able to roll themselves back into their kayak from the side while someone else holds onto their bow. There are also two devices available to aid in kayak re-entry. The first is a ladder that attaches to the side of the kayak to help get back into it. The second is a float that attaches to the paddle blade and allows the kayaker to use the paddle as a kickstand while attempting a re-entry. Either or both should be available at your local paddle sports retailer.

Another situation that comes up often that can cause a newer paddler to panic is trying to fight a strong current back to where they came from. This is a common issue at the mouth of rivers, outflows, inlets and pretty much any choke point with fast moving water rushing through it. If you find yourself in a situation where you cannot fight against the current then DON’T! You will eventually tire yourself out to the point of exhaustion. The better way to go about the situation is to look for a place to get to shore with your kayak. This could be an adjacent beach or somewhere down the shoreline. You’re better off going to where you can get to versus trying to fight a strong current you cannot get through.

Safety should always be the number one priority for every kayak angler. If you’re just getting into the sport, look into taking a kayak safety class. The ACA, AMC, Kayaking clubs, some YMCAs and many local kayak retailers typically offer some sort of lesson or training program throughout the season. Always file a float plan, or at the very least let someone know where you are going and when you plan to return. Use the buddy system whenever possible, especially when going out at night. Not only having the proper kayak, gear, equipment and knowledge but having someone with you if something were to go wrong could be the difference from having a harrowing story to tell versus a tragedy.

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