Holiday Traditions: Feast Of The Seven Fishes - The Fisherman

Holiday Traditions: Feast Of The Seven Fishes

holidays
The holidays mark a time of family, giving and of course, feasting on the bounties of the sea.

An Italian-American holiday celebration for all anglers this holiday season. 

The Feast of the Seven Fishes is a traditional Italian-American celebration that occurs on Christmas Eve, embracing the preparation and presentation of fish and seafood.  In its purest form, seven selections of seafood are prepared as part of the grand meal, the number seven having deep roots in biblical and religious representations – seven sacraments, seven sins, and the creation of the earth in seven days for starters.

For some, the feast may consist of seven distinct species of seafood, others may enjoy several fish choices prepared in seven different ways, while for those who embrace the complete and grand style of the feast seven full courses can be served.  One of the more contemporary variations to the style of this celebratory meal is to offer diners tasting portions.

There are no restrictions to how magnificent or modest the feast can be; the only real requisite is that fish and seafood are the primary components of the meal!  I typically prepare only saltwater species for the feast, with my typical family menu embracing briny species such as cod, flounder, tuna, swordfish, crab, mussels, clams, and squid.  Over the years, I have also added several themed recipes that involve local species of fish to include, blackfish, scup, sea bass and striped bass.  Of course, digging into a freezer-full of vacuum sealed selections from the 2024 season is always a great option for the holiday bounty.

When I think back to my childhood days and the feasts enjoyed among my family, there was a notable degree of consistency regarding the components of those Christmas Eve meals.  Our traditional menu was always anchored with a large pot of tomato marinara sauce that complemented the preparation of many of our seven seafood staples. Those seafood choices included: shrimp; clams, mussels, baccala (salted cod), squid; fillet of flounder and sea scallops.  The shrimp, calamari rings and tentacles, were typically simmered in the marina sauce, while the squid bodies were stuffed Neapolitan-style, and then they too were also bathed in sauce. Seared scallops and flounder rollatini would round out the meal.

While tomato-based sauces tend to complement the customary fish preparations served for the feast, they are by no means the only way to go.  For many of the mild-flavored fish like sole, fluke or flounder, butter-based and cream-based sauces, enhanced with garlic and a variety of herbs, add a nice flavor profile.  Dill and fennel fronds are two personal seasoning favorites. One such preparation is a garlic-butter sauce that includes lemon, crushed dill, salt, black pepper, tarragon, basil, and rosemary.

Aside from using time-honored and traditional tomato sauces to enhance your dishes, fish and seafood can also be grilled, fried, baked, broiled, and steamed. A variety of pastas like linguine, penne and angel hair complement these seafood preparations quite well.  The use of hot and cold dishes offers a nice contrast to both appetizers and main courses.  My family has also used the feast as an opportunity to enjoy other culinary delights such as tastings for cheese, wine, beer, and assorted desserts.

Saucy Selections

Marinara is a foundation sauce in Italian cooking that’s typically made with tomatoes, onions, garlic, a pinch of salt, pepperoncino, and some fresh basil. Although there are numerous home-chef variations of this sauce, the fundamental version marries well with many wild fish and seafood dishes.  Marinara is an especially fine sauce when prepared with a combination of shrimp, scallops, calamari, and crab. It is also excellent for use with mild-flavored fish species like fluke or flounder.  This sauce is commonly served with an accompanying pasta, like linguine, spaghetti, fettucine, or penne.

Putanesca is one of my favorite sauces.  It is an intensely flavorful sauce, with origins linked to, “ladies of the night.”  With vibrant aromatics and tantalizing flavors, this red sauce is as vivacious as the red-light district that led to its creation. Putanesca is made with diced or crushed tomatoes, garlic, Italian herbs and spices, capers, crushed red pepper flakes, olives, basil, and anchovies.  It takes a medium to strong seafood taste profile to stand up to the concentrated flavors of this sauce. Two favorite fish to pair with this sauce are tuna and swordfish. In its traditional form, putanesca is well-suited for pastas such as spaghetti, vermicelli, and angel hair.

Amatriciana is a time-honored pasta sauce that embraces guanciale (cured pork cheek) as a foundation ingredient, along with tomato, pecorino Romano cheese, and onion.  The sauce has deep roots in the town of Amatrice and a strong following throughout all of Italy. Amatriciana is recognized as one of the most popular pasta sauces, and it is typically served with spaghetti or bucatini.  Given the nature of the sauce, it can hold its own with a variety of seafood, and it pairs well with calamari, octopus, and groundfish species like cod and haddock.

Pomarola is a traditional and simple Tuscan sauce with a long and distinguished history in Italian kitchens. It can be prepared with either a single variety of tomato or a blended mix of tomato types, and is best made with the “holy trinity” of onion, celery, and carrot, as well as garlic, basil and salt. Canned, crushed tomatoes or peeled, fresh whole tomatoes that have been crushed by hand or diced can be used.  Pomarola is an ideal sauce for mild to medium-flavored fish and works well with flounder, fluke, shrimp, or scallops.

Arrabbiata is a variation of a basic marinara sauce that has a pumped-up spice content achieved through the addition of red pepper flakes or hot peppers like chilis, habaneros, and jalapenos. Other staple ingredients are tomatoes, tomato paste, onion, garlic, Italian seasoning, and fresh parsley. Literally translated, the word arrabbiata in Italian means “angry,” which, in the case of this sauce, relates to its hot and stimulating taste.  Although many pastas are suitable to pair with this sauce, arrabbiata can best be appreciated with a solid helping of penne.  Arrabbiata and pasta is a nice accompaniment to dishes like planked salmon with a honey glaze.

Pomodoro sauce is also known as Filetto di Pomodoro, literally translated as tomato fillet. It is a rustic and hardy sauce with aromas and taste that benefit immensely from the addition of prosciutto that has been chopped and braised, and the addition of umami-rich mushrooms.    The sauce is versatile enough for pairing with a variety of pastas, but it goes very well with penne and rigatoni, and comfortably matches to a wide array of seafood.  Over the years I have made this sauce often, along with grilled shrimp and scallops marinated in olive oil and a blend of Italian seasoning.  Pomodoro is also a well-suited sauce for meals that include finfish like trout, walleye, porgies, and flounder species.  While the sauce is most often made with fresh tomatoes, it can also be prepared with hand-crushed, canned plum tomatoes, or tomato puree.

Pan Seared Swordfish with Italian Rice and Beans

Serving for two

1 pound swordfish steaks

1-1/2 cups chicken broth

1/4 teaspoon Salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Olive oil

Creole or Cajun seasoning

1 cup long grain white rice

1 can cannellini beans, drained

1 small can diced tomatoes

4 tablespoons white wine

Italian Seasoning (basil, parsley, oregano) to taste

1 medium red onion chopped

2 to 3 cloves garlic minced

1 stalk celery chopped

1 Scallion chopped

6 small asparagus stalks chopped thin

1/2 Italian green pepper

Apply a small amount of olive oil, and salt/pepper to both sides of the fillet, followed by a liberal coating of the Creole or Cajun seasoning. Set aside until ready to cook.  Make rice using chicken broth instead of water for additional flavor.  Add olive oil to the skillet and set the heat to medium high. Add onion and garlic and sauté until onion is translucent and fragrant.  Do not burn garlic. Next add celery, scallion, green pepper, asparagus, salt, black pepper, and Italian seasoning. Continue to sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Add wine and cook off alcohol.  Add beans and diced tomatoes and allow mixture to simmer on low heat until ready to serve. Add a small amount of olive oil in another skillet and heat to medium/high. Add additional black pepper to both sides of the fillet to enhance blackening.  Place fillets in skillet and grill for about 3 minutes on each side. Plate the fish with the rice and beans.

Cod Amatriciana with Potato Gnocchi

Serving for two

1 pound cod fillets, cut into 4-ounce portions

2 tablespoon olive oil, divided

4 ounces of pancetta or guanciale, chopped

Small bunch Italian parsley

5 to 6 leaves fresh basil, chopped

1 medium onion finely chopped

Black pepper

2/3 garlic cloves, minced

28-ounce can whole tomatoes, crushed by hand

Salt

1 pound fresh or packaged potato gnocchi

Crushed pepper flakes

Season cod fillets lightly with olive oil, salt, black pepper, and oregano. Set aside until ready to grill. Heat one tablespoon of oil in the skillet over medium heat. Add pancetta or guanciale and render out the fat until it begins to crisp, about 3 to 4 minutes.  Add onion, cover skillet, and cook until onion begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add tomatoes and juice, plus a half-cup of water. Season with salt and red pepper flakes (to taste). Bring to a boil and then lower the heat. Simmer for about 25 to 30 minutes until sauce thickens. Boil water in a pot and heat olive oil in the skillet. When olive oil is hot, add the cod fillets. Grill 3 to 4 minutes on each side or until flakey. When the cod is almost cooked through, add gnocchi to the water pot and cook for 2 minutes.  Do not overcook or the potato will become too soft. When cooked, mix with sauce.  Plate cod over a liberal serving of sauce and then plate gnocchi.

Tuna Putanesca

Serving for two

2 8-ounce tuna steaks

1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil

4 garlic cloves chipped

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/2 cup red onion chopped

4 to 5 fresh basil leaves

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1 tablespoon fresh chopped parsley

4 ounces capers

1/2 cup Kalamata olives

1/2 cup white wine

1/2 cup chicken stock

2 cups tomato sauce

8 anchovy fillets

Salt and pepper to taste

Season tuna steaks with a light coating of olive oil, salt, pepper, and Italian seasoning.  Set aside until ready to grill.  Heat olive oil in skillet on medium heat.  Add garlic and red pepper flakes.  Cook until garlic is lightly brown. Add in red onion and cook for about 2 minutes. Add parsley and anchovies, and cook for additional two minutes. Increase heat to high.  Add wine and stir until half the wine as evaporated. Add chicken stock and tomato sauce.  Bring to a boil and reduce heat to low. Add capers and olives and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes.  While sauce is simmering, add the tuna steaks to the skillet and pan sear for about 2 to 3 minutes per side (vary cooking time based on desired temperature).  When cooked, simmer for 1 to 2 minutes in the sauce and then plate.  Serve with an accompanying pasta of choice.

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