The Cape beaches still have all the charm of the glory days and the fishing is better than you think!
The surfcasting on the beaches of Outer Cape Cod are steeped in history and those days and nights have been memorialized by the likes of Frank Daignault, Tony Stetzko and Frank Woolner.
And while the Cape may not live up to those days and nights of lore, it still carries that same desolate magic and produces some incredible surfcasting, as well. So, when New England editor Dave Anderson asked me to write an article about fishing the Outer Cape I had my reservations. Partially because there are already dozens of books and hundreds of articles about it. I was concerned that in doing so somehow the masses would flock to the shoreline and hang on every word as if it were gospel.
But then I spoke with my fishing buddies and they laughed with reassurance, “it’s not like we ever see anyone anyways!” Truer words have never been spoken; besides the locals and those’ve grown accustomed to seeing every year, we don’t run into a lot of new faces out here.
Sand & Solitude
Within the 40 miles of sand from Monomoy to P-Town there’s so much more than just a sand beach. The “backside” as we call it is a very special place on the Striper Coast. From the earliest days of the sport the outer Cape sand beaches have tested even the best anglers. It’s a wild, sparse, even barren shoreline dotted with the random cottages, town beaches and the occasional sandbar or two where linesiders seem to love to hunt and trap their prey.
While the daytime bite can be electric and turn a quiet, lazy beach day into absolute mayhem, nighttime is my time. Even at a young age I always preferred the darkness. I feel that, in a way, I was born in it and raised by it. I personally prefer the nights, the emptiness, the solitude, the calm and the quiet. I have always felt a heightened sense of awareness in the dark and I find nighttime on the beach, utterly fascinating.
I suppose it’s the remoteness and desolation of the Outer Cape that keeps me coming back. It truly is the furthest you go in Massachusetts to fish the surf and given the effort it takes to fish here I rarely see any competition. So, in a sense, it feels like it’s all mine and I don’t have to share! I’m of that generation where surfcasting was all about keeping your mouth shut about where and when a bite happened. No posts on social media, no pictures, hell no headlights unless you caught a hook in the hand and even then you operated like a MASH unit in the moonlight.
Never let anyone know where you are or more importantly what’s going on.
Drive The Beach
It was the summer of 2002, my wife and I and our newly adopted beagle pup Buddy had set off on a new adventure to the then North Truro Camping Area. Once we were set up, I started to notice that there were a ton of campers with beach buggies all outfitted with cooler racks and fishing rods. I had to investigate. So I asked our closest neighbor. That man was Jim Baker (it would be years later when my wife and I got a permanent seasonal campsite here that Jim and I figured out it was him that fateful day). After inquiring about the deflated tires, cooler racks and many other items of need, Jim promptly flipped down his truck’s visor and handed me the brochure for the Cape Cod National Seashore Oversand Permit, and then the memories came back to me.
| WHAT ABOUT THE SEALS? |
| Seals!? Yes, before you ask there’s plenty of seals, a quick Google search surprised even me that scientists believe somewhere between 30,000 and 50,000 gray seals populate Cape Cod and the islands. Chances are you will encounter them, so what do you do? Day versus night are different tactics however the key thing to remember is if you’re on a fish and a seal wants to play tug of war they will win period, end of lesson. So what do you do? OPEN YOUR BAIL!! (Or more appropriately take your line off the roller.)
Seals will almost always stay in the shallows given the number of great whites so just let them run and usually a half-mile or so of running down the beach after them you’ll have a shiny fish head!! More importantly you won’t lose your lure, leader and possibly $100 in braid. Personally the presence of seals especially at night means substantial bait in the area. For all the problems they can add I tend to stick it out and fish through them. |
You see, because I up in Rhode Island, there was never a need to go to the Cape to find beautiful beaches or great surf fishing, but back in the fall of 1992 my dad, uncle Hank and a few other surfcasters decided to head out to Race Point for Columbus Day weekend. This weekend left an indelible mark on my heart and when Jim handed me that flyer it all came flooding back. My wife and I didn’t waste any time. We headed into town to the Ace Hardware on Conwell Street where we found all the required over-sand equipment neatly arranged on an end cap. We laid down the credit card and headed to the ranger station at Race Point.
If I had to offer one piece of pinnacle advice it would be, that if you have a 4WD vehicle, get the over-sand permit, it will change the way you fish. The entire over-sand driving experience we have had over the past 24 years has been epic and probably deserves its own article, but that’s for another day. Driving on the beaches has changed our experience dramatically and I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention how that key component cemented our love for the outer cape and the backside beaches. It was that evening, as we sat on the sand behind our rig watching the sun melt into the horizon, that we both knew this is where we would spend our summers for the rest of our lives. The only question we really had was how the heck we would afford it.
Camping was the answer. For the past 26 years have at one point or another we have used camping as a vessel for access to our favorite place. Here’s what we have learned over that time to allow for the best experience this family could ask for.
Rods, Reels & Rigs
My daytime go rig is an ODM DNA NXD-118, it’s an 11-foot 60/40 split moderate-fast rod rated 3 to 8 ounces. I pair that with a Shimano Saragosa 8000 (tuna guys are shaking their heads). The 8000 holds approximately 230 yards of 60-pound PowerPro and has more than enough drag for anything you’ll encounter. The biggest advantage in the day time is the retrieval rate of 42 inches per crank. It’s very common to have seals chasing your catch on the way in, so the ability to set a hook and winch a fish in is paramount.
My nighttime setup is very different. At night my choice is a Lamiglas GSB101-MS. This is a one-piece 10-footer, rated 2 to 5 ounces with moderate action. Paired with a Van Staal VSX200 I believe it to be the best setup I’ve ever carried, although I do miss my Penn 706 on a Kennedy Fisher 10-footer my dad made me.
Rigging day or night for me doesn’t change; my braid of choice is 60-pound Power Pro Super Slick V2. My leaders are 60- to 80-pound Ande Pink or Berkeley Big Game Green. I prefer a long leader of 5 to 6 feet finished off with 175-pound TA Clip and a 330-pound SPRO #1 swivel. The Tim Coleman Rule exemplified, before you make a cast, you should ask yourself, “is there any part of your rigging you might question?” If the answer is yes, then why make the cast? I put myself in the position to never have to question my rigging!
Packing A Bag
I have two setups, the biggest difference being if I’m putting in long miles or working out of the truck. On nights where I plan on putting the miles in on foot I wear a ZBelt, not only are they made incredibly well they offer amazing lower back support. On that belt I have a bucktail/tin pouch that houses all my soft plastics. I also have pliers and a Boga, and then I shoulder-carry a Dark Star 3 tube that’s loaded to the max. For me larger bags on a belt don’t work well, probably because I’m 6-foot, 3 inches and 350! However, if I’m jumping in and out of the truck I wear an Ultimate Surf Belt with another bucktail/tin pouch and two Dark Star Single tubes.
Like most of you know, plug choice is largely about confidence. What I find works best for me are lures that I get to impart action on. Needlefish, Darters, Glide Baits and soft plastics are always all in the rotation but so are tins, heavy epoxy jigs, unweighted Slug-Go’s and even pencil poppers. A “burple” Guppy 6-inch pencil has saved more nights than I could even have imagined. If you’re venturing out to the Cape a short list of “must have lures” would look something like this…
- Super Strike Super “N” Fish
- Super Strike Darter
- 9-inch Slug-Go’s unweighted and paired with 1/8- to 3/8-ounce jigheads
- Yo-zuri Hydro Minnow LC 170mm
As far as colors go, always carry a variety of dark/light/contrast. My hook of choice for the past 6 years has been BKK Raptor and Viper in 2/0 and 3/0.
Access Do’s & Don’ts
As is true on most beaches up and down the striper coast, after hours access is every angler’s friend. Regardless if it’s a state, town or even a National Seashore beach, all except the ultra-private beaches are open to the public after suppertime. As with anywhere we surfcasters go, please leave it better than you found it. Pick up after yourself, and pick up after those who may have passed through before you. Access is a privilege, but if we all do our part to protect it, we’ll continue to enjoy it.
My biggest bit of advice for the backside adventure you’re about to embark upon, is to be prepared to walk mile upon mile in your hunt. Sometimes the view from the parking lot is be all you need to find fishy water, or the sandbar of your dreams could 3 miles to the east. Not all of the beaches allow over-sand access, but every one of them, from storied sands of Nauset to the legendary tip of Race Point holds miles of beach structure, volumes of surfcasting history and untold numbers of stripers on the feed all summer long. No matter how you choose tackle the dunes of the Cape, take my advice and make the trip it’s worth the drive
I grew up in Rhode Island and was blessed to be surrounded by some amazing anglers who always shared with me the beauty of the hunt. We chased all species from freshwater to big game, and the most important figure in all my fishing life was my dad. Who at 79 is still casting boulder fields and hoofing miles of shoreline slinging lures out into the darkness. Thanks Dad.
| THE OUTER CAPE COD ANGLER’S GUIDE |
| The Outer Cape offers some of the best surfcasting, beaches, and small-town charm in New England. Whether you’re visiting for a weekend fishing trip or an extended beach getaway, my hope is that the following can act as a guide that will put you on the right path to get the most out of a trip to the fabled outer beaches, without breaking the bank!
Emergency Care If you need urgent medical attention while visiting the Outer Cape, the following walk-in emergency facilities are available: Provincetown 49 Harry Kemp Way 508-487-9395 Hyannis 27 Park Street 508-771-1800
Bait & Tackle Shops North Chatham Outfitters Chatham, MA 508-348-1638 Goose Hummock Shop Orleans, MA 508-255-0455 Land’s End True Value Provincetown, MA 508-487-0784
Where to Eat Bob’s Sub & Cone – Wellfleet: $$ 508-349-6181 A local institution serving classic American fare, ice cream, and the only clam cakes you’ll find on Cape Cod. PJ’s Family Restaurant – Wellfleet: $$$ 508-349-2126 A laid-back seafood spot that is dog-friendly and BYOB. Arnold’s Lobster & Clam Bar – Eastham: $$$$ 508-255-2575 Known for oversized lobster rolls, fresh seafood, a raw bar, and a lively atmosphere. Captain’s Choice – Truro: $$$ 508-487-5800 Indoor and outdoor dining featuring seafood favorites, American classics, and a full bar. Top Mast Café – North Truro: $$ 209 Shore Road 508)-487-2099 A favorite breakfast and lunch destination for locals and visitors alike.
Quick Grabs & Market Stops Day’s Market 271 Route 6A, North Truro 508-487-2855 Coffee, breakfast sandwiches, pizza, soups, groceries, and all the essentials. The owner is an avid surfcaster and is known for helping visiting anglers—even loaning out rods and tackle when needed. Salty’s Market 2 Highland Road, North Truro Breakfast, sandwiches, baked goods, groceries, beer, and wine. Stop & Shop 56 Shank Painter Road, Provincetown Full-service grocery store with everything needed for an extended stay.
Cape Cod National Seashore & Oversand Access Race Point Ranger Station 508-487-2100 (ext 0927) www.nps.gov/caco/planyourvisit/cape-cod-national-seashore-oversand-beach-driving.htm Over-sand Vehicle (ORV) permits are available through the Cape Cod National Seashore. Weekly ORV Permit: $50 Seasonal ORV Permit: $250 Cape Cod National Seashore Annual Pass: $80 Senior Pass (Age 62+): $20 Annual or $80 Lifetime If over-sand routes are closed due to nesting birds or weather conditions, ORV permit holders still receive daytime access to National Seashore beaches including: Race Point South, Herring Cove and Head of the Meadow. Tire Air Stations Race Point features 24-hour air stations for airing down and airing up vehicles. The only other 24-hour air station on the Outer Cape is… Head of the Meadow Citgo 435 Route 6, Truro, MA Parking Information Most National Seashore and town beach parking lots are open to the public from 5 p.m. until 9 a.m. and generally provide restroom access. Town Beach Parking From mid-June through Labor Day, parking stickers are required at most town-owned beaches. Visitor parking sticker rates: 3 Days: $60 1 Week: $95 2 Weeks: $180 Season: $300 Visitors who walk or bike to Wellfleet town beaches are not charged an entrance fee.
Where to Stay Adventure Bound Cape Cod 508-487-1847 A convenient campground located near some of the Cape’s best beaches. Accommodation options include: traditional tent sites, RV and camping sites, fully-equipped rental trailers, camper rentals have to be one of the easiest ways to experience camping on Cape Cod you don’t need to bring your own equipment—simply arrive and enjoy yourself. |
